A Romagna white with character for a great linguine with clams
An organic wine (it doesn’t hurt) from the Colli Romagna Centrale DOC, grown on two hectares of alluvial soil full of pebbles and gravel on the left bank of the Savio river.
We’re in the hills of Mercato Saraceno, in the Savio valley. Mercato Saraceno wines come from vineyards near the village. Mercato Saraceno is a recognised subzone within the Romagna DOC: a subzone is the term used in the appellation rules to identify a smaller area within a delimited territory — elsewhere we’d say cru. Here the vineyards are mostly surrounded by woods, a feature reflected in the wine.
Sadifruttirossi begins the journey with an engaging white that stands out and stays in your memory: Tenuta Casali’s Cavaliere Bianco. An organic wine (it doesn’t hurt) from the Colli Romagna Centrale DOC, grown on two hectares of alluvial soil full of pebbles and gravel on the left bank of the Savio. It comes from a forty-year-old Trebbiano vineyard (old hens make good broth). In the glass it’s a lovely straw yellow, and its good acidity makes you want another glass. Don’t be scared: I don’t mean the “acidity” we associate with indigestion. In wine, acidity is a good thing: it makes your mouth water, helps digestion, invites a second glass and prepares the body for a good meal.
Well-balanced acidity is essential to a wine’s structure and taste. Sip it and you immediately feel a pleasant, direct wine with character — one to always have on the table. Everyone picks up different aromas depending on their experience; in the 2022 I found clear notes of aromatic herbs, sage above all. Put your nose in and play at finding your own. Dry, intense and fairly persistent, 13.5% alcohol, with a clear vertical intensity — a lovely, intense sensation on the palate. I’d serve it at about 12–13°C; since not everyone has a temperature-controlled cellar, take it out of the fridge and wait a few minutes, so you don’t serve it too cold and miss its qualities.
Today’s pairing? The dish shouldn’t be too complex or too persistent, or it would overpower the wine. A starter or a first course is perfect. Its acidity and savouriness call for a touch of sweetness and richness in the dish — just don’t overdo it. Try it with young cheeses as an aperitivo. It will surprise you with linguine with clams. Main course? Grilled saraghina (Adriatic sprats). Ready? Let’s drink.