Fifty shades of Burson: the Romagna you don’t expect in the glass

Welcome back, burdèl (Romagnol for “folks”). Today Sadifruttirossi is in the Ravenna countryside to tell you about the Longanesi grape, known as “Bursona” in Romagnol dialect. Around 200 hectares of this native variety grow around Ravenna, in Romagna. Only a few local wineries cultivate it, but the wine it gives is excellent, with a bold, exuberant character… just like the one that sets us true-blooded Romagnoli apart.

Until a few years ago it was still confused with Negretto, but in 2002 it was entered in the National Register of Grape Varieties under its original name, “uva Longanesi”. Let’s discover the fascinating story of the Bursona, its features, and the character of Bursôn-Longanesi wine.

Unusually, this delicious Romagna grape takes its name from its saviour, out of respect and gratitude to the man who changed what seemed a sealed fate. By the late 1800s Longanesi had almost disappeared: phylloxera, the insect that feeds on vines, had damaged the few plants along the Romagna coast so badly that they were given up for lost.

For decades the vine was forgotten, and its wines faded from the memory of those who had tasted them. Its rescue dates to around 1913. It seems that Mr Antonio Longanesi found, in a “roccolo” (a wooded strip at the edge of farmland used for bird hunting), an old vine that had climbed an oak tree and served as a lure for birds. He tasted the fruit and immediately recognised its great potential.

Now let’s indulge in a little boring sommelier talk — but from someone who knows the subject. To understand the potential of the Longanesi grape, just look at a bunch: compact, medium-sized, elongated, bright and opalescent. The skin is covered by a rather thick bloom, the feature that makes the variety easy to recognise. Right, that’s enough! No more technicalities.

Back to the story. In 1956 Antonio decided to plant a few rows and tried to attract the attention of producers and wine lovers. Success came quickly and, in his honour, the grape took the name of its saviour. (Some call it Bursôn, the nickname Antonio Longanesi had as a child.)

It was entered in the Register of Vineyards in 1999 as number 357, under the name Uva Longanesi, and since the 2007 harvest it has carried the IGT label (Typical Geographical Indication).

Bursôn wine has been made since 1998. To protect its typicity, the name was registered and granted for free use to the “Il Bagnacavallo” consortium. Longanesi grows on almost completely flat land with little clay — quite unusual for a red grape.

A key trait of the Longanesi grape is how well it takes to drying. As the grapes wither, sugar rises and balances the harder components, adding softness — a great advantage that winemakers use widely. The wine then ages for at least two years in wooden casks, which softens the tannins while keeping the acidity. The result is a demanding wine for discerning drinkers: intense, broad and rich, with fruity aromas of spice, cocoa and sour cherry; full-bodied and dense on the palate; garnet red, and in the bottle it completes its great personality as the flavours and scents of the Ravenna pine-forest undergrowth — where the vine survived for years — come back to the surface.

One of the few wineries that makes this wine, and has stood out over time, is Tenuta Uccellina, a Romagna estate that since its beginning in 1985 has devoted itself to seeking the essence of the “Romagna of wines”.

Its founder, Alberto Rusticali, has always believed in the potential of Romagna’s traditional grapes and sought their most authentic expression. In 1985 Alberto rented his first plots, founding Tenuta Uccellina and carrying on his grandparents’ work.

In 1998 the “Il Bagnacavallo” consortium was born, with Tenuta Uccellina as a founding member, and work began on the Longanesi grape to make the now-famous Bursôn. The first vintage released was 2000, with the 1998 Longanesi harvest. Many awards followed, the latest for Burson 2016, awarded the AIS “4 viti” in the tenth edition of the well-known guide Vitae — La Guida Vini 2024.

Tenuta Uccellina started with Sangiovese, Albana and Trebbiano, then added other old native varieties such as Uva Longanesi (Bursôn) and Famoso (Rambëla). The first two are still grown in the hills around Brisighella (Ravenna), while the others grow on the plain at Russi (Ravenna), home to the recently renovated cellar.

The estate’s philosophy demands the utmost respect for the grapes, both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Healthy fruit keeps sulphites to a minimum at every stage, with small, carefully measured additions. Each grape is handled differently depending on the wine it will become, drawing on years of winemaking experience.

Sadifruttirossi brings you a tasting of Burson 2016 Black Label, the estate’s most noble version, made from grapes dried in the fruit loft and aged in French oak tonneaux. Its most celebrated and awarded wine, soft and complex: garnet red, with aromas of red fruit, sour cherry and blackberry, and spicy notes of vanilla and cocoa. Decisive, elegant and enveloping on the palate.

Today’s pairing? Bursôn Blue Label and Black Label are the two versions, both made from 100% Uva Longanesi.

“Blue Label”: the macerated, fermented grapes rest for fifteen days in a steel tank; the wine then spends 10–12 months in a 500-litre oak cask and is bottled and released after at least six more months. Carbonic maceration avoids drying the grapes, so the wine is fresh, tasty and easy to enjoy. Brilliant with grilled meat.

“Black Label”: half of the harvested grapes are dried and fermented for about two weeks. The wine then rests for another two weeks in a steel tank, a year in a 500-litre oak cask and another year in a large cask, and is finally bottled and sold after six months.

The most precious is Burson Black Label (the selection), ruby verging on garnet. It has remarkable structure, composed and elegant, and pairs beautifully with game — but try it with a burger too ;) scout’s honour!

Its substantial 15% alcohol and firm tannic texture call for an important dish, one that balances richness and complexity.

Serve Bursôn in large glasses at 18–20°C to enjoy it at its best. “Burson lovers” often pair it — rightly so — with slow-braised dishes such as stracotto alla piacentina (to stay in the north of the region), a traditional Piacenza recipe listed among Italy’s traditional food products: beef cooked for hours in a sauce of tomato passata, herbs and wine. Either way, burdèl… Bursôn is a wine you love or hate! There’s no middle ground. Tenuta Uccellina’s Black Label, perhaps with a few years on its shoulders: I LOVE IT!

Tomorrow, Friday 22 March, AIS Cesena hosts a wonderful event about this grape: follow the link to find out more and stay informed:

https://www.aisromagna.it/eventiais/

Ready? Let’s drink…